Grapes on the Shamoli Plain - Afghanistan

I crossed Afghanistan's Shamoli Plain in 1997 to ascertain the viability of an agricultural rehabilitation programme. The area had once been famous for its vineyards and exports of grapes and raisins to neighbouring countries.

As one of the most fertile areas of Afghanistan in close proximity to Kabul, the Plain was cursed with anti-personnel mines from an earlier conflict. It was considered one of the most heavily mined area in Afghanistan.

Vineyards were abundant, but clearly untended for some years.  

Given the lack of foliage early in the year, it was evident that many landowners were collecting munitions and stacking them in the corner of their fields There were no indication of their condition or evidence of the danger they posed. 

Many fields were mined

Occasionally one could see the regular edges of dark metallic objects protruding from the mud. Some fields had been sprayed with butterfly mines whilst in others stick mines stood at odd angles. They were clearly deteriorating and far from secure. Bounding mines when detonated had the unpleasant habit of shooting into the air before lethally showering the surrounding area with shards of metal. Children and livestock were regular victims.  

All fieldwork was undertaken from the top of dykes and well walked pathways.

Later on in the year - 1997 - the tide began to turn against the Taliban, and they were to inflict appalling suffering on the principally Tajik population of this area before destroying irrigation channels, poisoning wells and destroying what crops they could find.

Today in 2025 we have  a Taliban regime reducing women to servitude and penury whilst promoting the country as a tourist resort.  Judge for yourself.

Torkham and the Durand Line - Pakistan / Afghanistan

The truly outstanding feat of engineering that brought the railway through the Khyber Pass extends as far as Landi Kotal, the highest point on the pass. In 52 km the track contains 34 tunnels and 92 bridges. It is engineering at the limit of the day's technology.

The end of the line was also effectively the western limit of British influence and control. The Alfidis who control the pass would rise up, attack and occasionally slaughter those stationed in the fort. These days the fort is still there and the environment is just as precarious.

I was fortunate to travel through the Pass at a time of relative calm. From Landi Kotal it is another 9K’s until you finally reach the Durand Line and the border crossing at Torkham.

The border post.
I was to spend some time over that horizon.

The Durand Line was named after Mortimer Durand, Foreign Secretary of colonial India. Demarcation was started in 1893 to establish a border and spheres of influence between Afghanistan and British India. It effectively created a buffer between the two powers in the Great Game, Russia and Britain, with the final section of the demarcation near the Khyber pass agreed in 1921.

Today the Durand Line is the 1,640 km border between Afghanistan and Pakistan, although its validity is still contested by the Afghan’s.

Since its inception it has been regarded as one of the most volatile and dangerous borders in the world. From high adventure in the Great Game through to cross border drone attacks today.

Torkham is smuggling central with anything and everything of value up for sale, and everyone is armed.

The area retains its reputation for danger and adventure, but for the moment not recommended for travel beyond the Khyber Pass.